Impressions of the Dark Continent

By Sreenivasan, Mumbai

I wonder whether there will be any Indian  who had spent his childhood in the post Independent era and  not heard about Africa especially due to the South African connection of Mahatma Gandhi. I had a teacher in the Lower Primary class, Chellappan Sir. He used to narrate the geography, flora, fauna and the life style prevalent in the Dark Continent with such precision that you feel as if you are in one of the African Jungles. According to him sun light never touches the ground because of the thick vegetation. The day time temperature is comparable to that in Venus. Every evening there is rain; very heavy ones which makes the dry land in to a marshy swamp in a few hours which again dry out by noon next day. The running commentary of the fight between David Livingstone and the Lion was another interesting item, which instigated some of us to take up fight with physically weaker ones in the class. The matter will be settled after two rounds of canning by the “instigator” himself. There are only two types of people Negros and Pygmies and some of them are cannibals! If anyone goes to African jungles it is quiet unlikely to survive more than a few months; most likely he/she will die of deadly diseases such as Malaria, typhoid, jaundice ,small pox etc etc.. Many of us were really scared of the pages in the book bearing the name Africa in it. Diseases can be transmitted through letters also!! As we grew up the impression changed considerably after reading travelogues of Shri.SK Pottekkad. Still Africa remained as Dark as my ignorance until a few years back when my friend Ms Namita Tripathi (who was my colleague in Railway,both of us were Dy Chief Vigilance officers looking after different departments) narrated her travel experience in Liberia (where her husband was on a World Bank Mission) and Zimbabwe . Later during the second half of 2017 I met my friend Fazal in Mumbai Airport when he was on his way back to Entebbe to join duty in UN. The rendezvous triggered a strong desire to visit Africa. I did not think twice before agreeing to the offer of the ITFA organizers to join the group.

So finally, we set off to Africa on 19^th October 2018.We were more than a dozen in the flight from Dubai to Nairobi. I was carrying an oversized suitcase which attracted everyone especially the customs. So, I had to open the suitcase everywhere to satisfy the customs officials to confirm that I am an ordinary traveler carrying only essentials for the safari. The safari and the visit was not only fun but also a great learning. Most importantly the climate. I nurtured the impression that Africa is a very hot place, everywhere. Actually, the climate is very salubrious which you may not find anywhere in India. No regular heavy rains spoiling daily life. I changed my impression on Africa.

The quality of Roads constructed in Kenya need special attention. Throughout the journey covering about a thousand Kilometers I could find only one pot hole that too very small. Even though the coverage of asphalted roads in Africa is very less (Kenya has more unpaved roads than paved ones) as compared to India I find their quality of construction much superior.

However, I was disappointed to see that Kenyans abandoned their Railway system inherited from the colonial era. Could see some new constructions, standard gauge, coming up. Absence of Railway system could be a major setback to their economic development. Masai Mara was true encounter with nature. Homo sapiens are a mere minority in the area. The Safari Vehicle veered through the ocean of brown grass offering a clear 360-degree view of the horizon. Animals appearing big, small, smaller and as a tiny spot in the distant horizon. Occasionally hot air balloons carrying visitor passed through the sky. Migratory wild beasts and zebras lined up for their annual expedition.

The Mara river, the life line of the region, flows with a composed silence. Some of the migrating wilder beasts and zebras will fall prey to the waiting crocodiles and other hazardous predators in the river. Hippos co-exist comfortably with the crocodiles

 Vultures keep surveillance of the forest looking for left out flesh. Antelopes, giraffes and Meer cats are the most responsive animals. Giraffes seems to have developed special curiosity to visitors as they come face to face with clear eye contact. They have very beautiful eyes. Had they been in India abundantly our ancient poets would have coined different word to describe beautiful eyes, ignoring the eyes of Deer’s.

Our visit to the Masai Village was memorable. The overall set up of the village is similar to any tribal Village in India. Several huts constructed along the periphery of a large rectangle. The center court is used to house the animals, mainly cows. They live on Milk, Blood (of their animals) and Meat, all available in sufficient quantities. Generally, their small kitchen houses only three vessels; one for milk and other for milk and the third one for meat. The chief maintains several teenaged wives. Their lives seem to depend only on their animals similar to ancient Yadav clan in India. It is surprising that in spite of prolonged British rule the Masais maintained their traditional way of life. Not much change in their life style, religion or food habits except some working knowledge in English! It is a surprise that even today there seems to be no efforts to uplift them and bring then to main stream. May be the tourism business need such unique tribe to enhance business.

Lake Naivasha was the most romantic place we covered. The cottages, lush green lawn, grazing antelopes, lake and a volcanic mountain at the far end…. Perfect combination of a honey moon location. As the sun sets the Hippos come out of their hiding place in the lake. Antelopes withdraw and hand over the right of grazing to the mighty hippos. The hotel staff told us “Hippos are the most aggressive animals in Africa”. More aggressive than the Lion if they are disturbed. We were cautioned to not venture out during darkness; Even for going to the dining hall located in the main hotel building one must call the hotel security. Later on, we were told that a couple of tourists from China were attacked and killed by Hippos! During our trip, we spotted Giraffes for the first time here. Moving in a line one after another. All herbivorous animals move in Groups. They are under constant fear of threat for their life.

 

I never expected much “ Indianess” in Africa. But there are many, Airtel mobile service, TATA motors, different types of vegetables etc. The mobile coverage of Airtel is excellent. Even from deep inside Masai Mara reserve I could get calls from India. The signal strength was excellent. No call drops or speech distortion.

What we saw in Africa was enjoyable and excellent, but our experience was much beyond that. It was thrilling due to the companionship of the 84EE group. Initially I was a bit apprehensive whether I could merge seamlessly with the group as I belong to a different branch of Engineering and hence neither had an opportunity to be with the EE class or to share teenage lighter moments with them. Even I never met most of them before. But on the positive side there were many in the group with whom I maintained close family relationship since hostel days or early stages of my career. Ninan, Fazal, Ashokan, Anilraj , Ramesh, Fenwick ,Salin, Saji, Santhosh, Jayasree, to name a few. But these minor apprehensions and shyness disappeared on the first day (night!) itself when we assembled in Windsor Golf course on 19^th October.

The colossal group of about eighty people started our expedition in thirteen mighty Toyota Land Cruiser on 20^th morning covering about 300 Km per day. Experienced drivers coupled with VHF communication among all safari vehicles increased the comfort level of the journey. Except a couple of cases of tire puncture the journey was very comfortable. Transport manager Ramesh made a very systematic distribution of vehicles. Everyday rotation of occupants in the vehicles enhanced maximum interaction among us. Great work my dear BARC scientist!

All evenings were fraught with cultural feast. The ideas and opinions of the next generation made many of us introspective. Incessant energy flow from Rockey chettan (The self-styled Mooppan) made our days constantly vibrant.

The memorable trip concluded with a gallant function in Nairobi ; presenting accounts, concluding speeches from tour operator, group members and other stake holders and finally  with a grant cultural event. Decision regarding the tentative destination for the next reunion was also taken. We departed to different destinations on 26^th.

In hotel lobby Fazal was sitting with a bunch of dollar in his hands to equitably distribute the balance left in the tour account. Such meticulous people are very rare. The luggage laden bus started off from the hotel lobby to Kenyatta Airport. Fazal and a few others were waving their hands. It was rather a call for the next reunion. We moved on to our next destination Kenyatta Airport, Dubai and then to Amchi Mumbai.