To Kenya, with love

….By Harsha

“We travel, initially, to lose ourselves; and we travel, next to find ourselves. We travel to open our hearts and eyes and learn more about the world than our newspapers will accommodate. We travel to bring what little we can, in our ignorance and knowledge, to those parts of the globe whose riches are differently dispersed. And we travel, in essence to become young fools again- to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love once more.” – Pico Iyer

There are several breath-taking vacation spots in the world; from sparkling, pristine beaches to dense jungles, and arid deserts to magnificent peaks.

And there’s Kenya, which has a bit of everything!

Surreal and sublime, it leaves you feeling enchanted, and offers an unparalleled experience worth savouring.

The country has it all – from the Big Five (Lion, Leopard, Rhinoceros, Elephant, and Cape buffalo), to some of the most exotic wildlife that can be found only in that part of the world.

I have travelled to over 18 countries in the last three years. But what I experienced in Kenya was like nothing I had ever seen before. Neither La Tour Eiffel nor the splendid Hagia Sophia can match up to the raw, irresistible charm of Africa.

My love affair with the African continent began when I was a child. I remember feeling absolutely mesmerised after watching ‘The Lion King’, thus fuelling an ardent desire in my heart to visit the land that inspired the Walt Disney masterpiece.

Fast forward to a few years later. I happened to watch the critically acclaimed movie ‘Out of Africa.’ Watching Meryl Streep play the role of Baroness Karen Blixen was like watching a dream play out. The stunning Kenyan landscape, Karen’s coffee farm at the foot of the Ngong Hills, and the rich wildlife of Masai Mara remained permanently etched in my heart.

Then a couple of years ago, when I was studying in Manipal University (Karnataka), I became good friends with a girl from Tanzania. She would often invite me home for dinner and tell me stories about her country and culture. She would show me pictures of Masai Mara and Serengeti, and I became absolutely obsessed with Africa.

So, imagine my excitement when mother told me about this reunion trip that her ‘Batch of 84’ (Electrical Engineering) from College of Engineering, Trivandrum (CET) was planning. The destination for 2018 was Kenya!

What amazes me is how enthusiastic and proactive my mother’s friends are. Year after year, the entire Electrical Engineering ‘Batch of 84’ organises a reunion in a different location, and they meet without fail, with their families in tow. It has been 34 years since they all graduated, but their friendship has only blossomed and grown stronger over the years. My generation ought to take a leaf out of their books and cultivate friendships like these, that last forever.

When my mother told me about this trip initially, I was beyond excited, but I must admit that I was also a tad bit apprehensive. The two reasons being – one, this was the first time that I was going to be part of this annual alumni meet (and I didn’t know anyone apart from 3 to 4 people), and two, because there were 78 people in all who had registered! Most of my trips have either been solo trips or with small groups of friends, so when I heard about 78 people coming for the tour, I had half a mind to drop out. But thank heavens, I didn’t! I would have cursed myself all year had I missed this amazing tour that has created such wonderful memories for all of us. I got the opportunity to meet some extraordinary people over the course of the trip, and forged new connections that I hope to nurture and grow.

Our trip was planned for the month of October, which is a pretty good time for wildlife viewing, because of the migration season. I was supremely excited and couldn’t wait to see it all!

Another reason why I was looking forward to this trip was because our whole family was travelling together. It had been a while since we took a family vacation; the last one was probably in 2015 before I went to the UK to study. Now with me back in the country and my sister having completed her BDS degree, it was the perfect time for a family getaway!

Speaking of Kenya, here is some background information about the country. Located in East Africa bordering the Indian Ocean between Somalia and Tanzania, Kenya is Africa’s most popular tourist destination. It is home to rare species of animals as well as spectacular lakes, mineral springs, and forests. Nairobi is the capital and the largest city in the country.

Kenya has a population of over 47 million people, and they mostly speak Swahili and English which are the official languages, along with various other indigenous languages. Although the official currency is the Kenyan Shilling, foreign currencies such as US Dollars are widely accepted (1 Indian Rupee is 1.45 Kenyan Shilling). Christianity is the predominant religion (practised by nearly 85 percent of the population), followed by Islam (9.7 percent), and several other faiths such as Hinduism, Buddhism and traditional religions.

Our trip began on 19 October when we flew from Mumbai in the wee hours of the morning, along with several other friends and families. We had a connecting Emirates flight via Dubai, with a layover of a couple of hours. Another group joined us at the Dubai airport; all of us met and exchanged pleasantries.

 We landed at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (named after the country’s first president and prime minister), in Nairobi. Since we already had an e-Visa, we didn’t have to spend a lot of time at the airport. A tempo traveller came to pick us up and took us to our place of stay – Windsor Golf Hotel and Country Club, which was on the outskirts of the city. Though it was just a 45-minute drive from the airport, we took over two hours to reach, because of the crazy traffic!

Three things that struck me about Nairobi soon after we landed – one, that the city was exceptionally clean and well-maintained, unlike most Indian cities. Two – the people were extremely friendly. Right from the airport staff to the waiters in the hotels, or the strangers on the streets, everyone was always eager to help. And three, the traffic was insane! I come from Mumbai which is probably the busiest city in India and has a reputation for bad traffic, but this was beyond crazy! Driving in Nairobi is a real test of patience.

Upon reaching the resort, I was blown away by the beauty of it. The sprawling lawns complete with jogging tracks, the Victorian style cottages and rooms overlooking the golf course; it was a stunning property. It was quite late in the evening when we reached, and we didn’t get much time to explore the resort unlike the other groups, who had arrived much earlier. It’s a pity that we only had one day to enjoy this beautiful property.

After we checked into our rooms and freshened up, we assembled in one of the halls for our introductory session. This was more like a meet-and-greet icebreaker session where all 78 of us introduced ourselves, and got to know each other better. Fazal uncle took us through the whole itinerary and the detailed schedule of the week-long trip. This trip wouldn’t have been possible without Fazal uncle who worked round-the-clock despite his busy schedule and meticulously planned everything. The very fact that he visited Masai Mara last year to do a recce and get a feel of the place ahead of this trip speaks volumes about his level of commitment. The various committees (Finance, Accommodation, Transport, Event Management and Crisis Management) also worked tirelessly to ensure that everything was executed seamlessly and smoothly.

During dinner, we were in for a surprise! A team of Sarakasi acrobats and dancers performed for us and kept us thoroughly entertained with their well-choreographed dance moves. Sarakasi in Swahili means circus or acrobatics. Exuding vibrant energy and graceful athleticism, these dancers performed to a series of popular African songs, and a Hindi number as well (Badtameez Dil, exclusively for us)! We couldn’t stop cheering them on; they were supremely talented!

After a sumptuous breakfast, we checked out and left for the next destination – Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Since we were 78 people in all, we were divided into 13 groups and assigned specific safari vehicles for the next couple of days. The transport committee had really put a lot of thought into doing this and forming groups in a manner that people interacted with each other as much as possible.

Our journey to Ol Pejeta was made thoroughly enjoyable, thanks to Rocky uncle and Bibiana aunty. Rocky uncle kept cracking us up with his jokes and remarks, and our driver John also kept us engaged in casual banter.

After a four-hour long road trip, we reached the Ol Pejeta conservancy, situated between the foothills of the Aberdares and Mount Kenya.

Now what exactly is a conservancy? It consists of vast stretches of land, mostly adjoining a national park, that eco-tourism operators rent from local communities or private ranches. This rented land is not used for grazing cattle or farming, but left alone for the exclusive use of wildlife, and for small groups of tourists to visit. Today, the conservancy model is working very well, and several of these have been established throughout Africa.

At Ol Pejeta, we visited the Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary, which shelters orphaned, abandoned and rescued chimpanzees. Interestingly, one of the chimpanzees was called Socrates, the philosopher of the group. True to his name, he appeared rather subdued and lost in thoughts. The guide mentioned that he was one of the first chimpanzees to arrive at the sanctuary in 1993. We also spotted another male called Poco, who was extremely active and restless. He grew impatient when people started calling out to him, and was almost about to throw mud on us when we ran as fast as our legs could carry us!

After the Chimpanzee sanctuary, we dispersed in different directions for the afternoon game drive in the conservancy. Our driver John had the eyes of a hawk and was adept at spotting animals. We spotted zebras, rhinos, a herd of elephants, buffaloes, gazelles and many others. However, the highlight of the day was when a lioness crossed our vehicle. Walking nonchalantly, she was the epitome of poise and grace. What a beautiful creation of God!

We also got the opportunity to feed and play with an adopted rhino. Ol Pejeta is home to two of the world’s last remaining northern white rhinos, and a sanctuary for over 110 critically endangered black rhinos.

Towards evening, we went to our accommodation- Sweetwaters Serena Tented camp. Located within the conservancy, the camp is the perfect retreat for wilderness and safari lovers. We were welcomed by a group of dancers who performed the traditional Kenyan Masai dance. It was so much fun dancing with them, trying our best to blend into their culture. As usual, Rocky uncle led from the front and matched steps with these dancers, with unbeatable enthusiasm.

When we woke up the next morning, we discovered how beautiful the view from our tent was. We were treated to the sight of impalas and water bucks grazing. It was indeed magical.

After breakfast, we departed for the next destination of the tour – Naivasha. After a journey of 4.5 hours, we reached Lake Naivasha Sopa Lodge, our abode for day three. Out of all the places we stayed at, this was certainly my favourite. As soon as we entered the property, we were greeted to the sight of giraffes and elands grazing. The doors of our rooms opened out into the lawns where these grazing animals stood, staring right back at us. It felt surreal!

If one wants to experience wild Kenya without drifting too far from the luxuries and comforts that city life brings, one must visit this place.

Post lunch, we visited Lake Naivasha, a beautiful freshwater lake in the Great Rift Valley Province. Surrounded by Acacia trees, bird life abounds in the lake’s surroundings, and it is a popular spot among tourists. We went on a boat ride in the lake, and spotted cormorants, pelicans, hawks and the majestic African fish eagles. Lake Naivasha is one of the primary drinking holes for buffaloes, zebras, elands, impalas, as well as a favourite place for hippos to cool themselves during the day. We saw several hippos enjoying a swim in the lake, and African fish eagles swooping down to catch their prey.

Later that night after dinner, the cultural committee organised a session on ‘The Past and the Present’. It was wonderful to see everyone reminiscing their college days and narrating incidents of the past. Anecdotes were shared, secrets were revealed and wave after wave of laughter filled the room.

After the session, when we were being escorted back to our rooms, the hotel staff warned us to stick together for safety as hippos were known to roam inside the premises at night. Upon flashing torch lights, we could see the silhouettes of gigantic hippos behind the bushes. Weighing between 1500 kg to 3200 kg, hippos are known to be extremely aggressive (despite being vegetarians), and are the second biggest killers in Africa, after mosquitoes.

I woke up quite early the next morning as I couldn’t contain my excitement. It was the day that I had been waiting for – we were finally going to Masai Mara!

The journey from Naivasha to Masai Mara was painfully long (about 7.5 hours), but completely worth the hassle. The Kenyan sun can get very hot so we ensured that we stocked up on enough bottled water. Winding roads and breath-taking escarpments were some of the side dishes on the journey. We also passed several curio shops on the way, and spotted the native Masai herd their cattle wearing their traditional outfits. The topography changed gradually – trees giving way to bushes, and soon after, bushes giving way to shrubs and grasses.

About a little more than three hours into the drive, we reached the end of the ‘good road.’ Then started the bumpy road which was just soil, stones and dust. We saw some village schools and hospitals on the way, and kids gleefully waved out to us. I can never get over the innocence and the happiness on the faces of these kids. Most of them don’t even have basic amenities and probably walk miles to go to school or fetch water, but they looked so happy and satisfied.This is what travel does to you; it makes you humble. It shows you how privileged you are, and teaches you to not take anything for granted.

The best time to visit the Mara is July through October as it is the perfect time to catch a glimpse of the Great Wildebeest Migration. Imagine millions of animals moving from one national park to another in search of greener pastures. This migration which takes place between Serengeti in Tanzania and Masai Mara in Kenya is indeed a sight to behold.

Upon reaching our place of stay (Azure Mara Haven) in Masai Mara, we were welcomed by a group of Masai dancers who did the traditional ‘adamu’ jumping dance. I asked one of the hotel staff members about the significance of this dance, and the reason behind all the jumping. She explained that it is a form of mating dance, by which young Masai men demonstrate their strengths to attract women. The more graceful and higher the jump, the more appealing the warrior is to the eligible women watching.

After lunch, we checked into our tents and cottages. After freshening up, we left for a visit to a nearby Masai village. Although it was a fairly good experience, I am pretty certain that the guides were trying to con us. Firstly, the lady guide named Tito spoke impeccable English. If she were really a Masai girl with no formal English education, she wouldn’t be able to speak the language so fluently. Secondly, she said a couple of strange things –that nine of her siblings slept on one tiny bed, which was completely bizzare and impractical.

However, despite all of this, we did manage to learn a couple of new things about Masai culture. One, that the traditional Masai diet is comprised of only three things – milk, blood and meat (of a cow). Two, that Masai men can have multiple wives. However, a woman can only be with one man. The feminist in me was seething with anger by now! Three, that it is completely acceptable in Masai culture for a 50 year-old man to marry a nine year old, which is disturbing and horrifying!

The lady guide took us on a tour of her mother’s house and explained various rituals associated with the Masai culture.The best part about this Masai village tour however, were the kids who were overjoyed to meet us and take pictures with us. Their excited shrieks of ‘Jambo’ and ‘Karibu’ still echo in my ears.

The next morning, all of us woke up at the crack of dawn and assembled near the reception by 6:45 am for the most awaited game drive!

We got into our respective vehicles and set off! 13 vehicles one after the other; it resembled a serious military operation. After a long verification process, we finally entered the National Reserve.

My first impression of Masai Mara? It was straight out of Lion King! Spread across approximately 1510 square kilometres, the Reserve is a land of breath-taking vistas, abundant wildlife and endless plains. We spotted thousands and thousands of wildebeests and zebras, several gazelles, water bucks, elands, buffaloes and impalas.

We also saw a male and a female lion basking in the sun after a heavy meal. I had finally found my Simba and Nala! The carcass of the animal they killed lay a few feet away, attracting vultures. We also spotted several ostriches, a herd of elephants and a coalition of cheetahs. A lone giraffe walked in the distance, with utmost grace and poise. Masai Mara is indeed a photographer’s paradise!

We passed the Kenya-Tanzania border that runs through the National Reserve. At the Mara river, we spotted several hippos, and the security officer told us that there were about 4000 of them in all! We also saw some crocodiles lurking near the river. But the highlight of the Reserve was without a doubt, the wildebeest migration. A visual spectacle, it is considered one of the greatest wonders of the natural world.

After an eventful day, we returned to our hotel. Over tea, we had another informal chat on the ‘The Past, The Present and the Future.’ This time, the conversation was focussed on the future, and we, the younger generation, were asked to share our thoughts. It was quite a perceptive and insightful conversation on certain futuristic aspects that scare us the most, and excite us the most. Topics like technology, social media, health and marriage were touched upon, and some interesting perspectives were put forth.

This was followed by a campfire dinner, and dance performances by some Masai dancers.

The next morning, we departed for another game drive to catch the sunrise view and explore another part of the Reserve. Around 10 people from our group also signed up for the balloon ride safari. The sunrise view was truly magical, with hot-air balloons soaring up in the air! We spotted gazelles, zebras, ostriches and a pride of lions sleeping behind some bushes.

After breakfast, we bid goodbye to Masai Mara with a heavy heart. I didn’t want to leave! The hospitable people, the unmatched scenic beauty and the diverse wildlife – Masai Mara is every bit as beautiful as I had envisioned.

The journey back to Nairobi took us almost 8 to 9 hours. We stopped by some curio shops on the way to buy souvenirs, and also halted at the Great Rift Valley photo point.

We were pretty exhausted after the long journey, but we were certainly not done with the celebrations! It was cultural night, and there were some outstanding singing performances in store for us. While Pradeep uncle enchanted us with his beautiful performance, the ladies sang and grooved to a peppy Kenyan song. It was a fun night!

The next day, we stepped out to do some sightseeing in Kenya. The David Shieldrick Elephant Orphanage was our first halt, and it was an absolute delight watching baby elephants guzzling milk, playing with twigs and frolicking in the mud. This place is a haven for abandoned and orphaned elephants, the youngest of which are just two months old.

Our next stop was the Giraffe Centre in Nairobi, where tourists could feed and touch giraffes, and even kiss them! Although the place was crowded and buzzing with tourists, it was a memorable experience.

Our last halt for the day was ‘Bomas of Kenya’, a cultural village built to showcase the diversity of cultures that make up Kenya. We witnessed the acrobatics show and some beautiful traditional dances such as the ‘Adamu’ Masai dance, Isikuti, Chakacha and many more. It was a cultural extravaganza indeed; we couldn’t stop applauding them!

And finally, it was our last night in Kenya. It’s a pity that time flies so fast when you are having fun!

It was time for testimonials, thank yous and goodbyes. People shared their experiences of the trip, and thanked the various committee members for putting together such a wonderful trip. We also expressed our gratitude to Satguru travels (our tour operator), for chalking out such a brilliant itinerary and making our stay so comfortable. The night ended with everyone gyrating to the tunes of ‘Waka waka’ and ‘Jimikki kammal’ and celebrating four decades of friendship!

The next morning, we bade farewell to each other and parted ways. In just one week, we had all become one big, happy family and we couldn’t wait to see each other again. We had already started planning next year’s trip!

Asante Kenya, you were amazing. You were every bit as stunning as I expected you to be. You have my heart. See you again, real soon!

And to the wonderful batch of CET EE84, please keep the ball rolling. You guys are an inspiration for the younger generation. Rarely does one come across friendships like these, that last forever. I really look forward to meeting all of you again!